Yes, to a few grams.  You will never notice the difference.

To about ten thousandths of an inch, except for the seam between the two main parts of the throttle lock, and the inboard surface.

Only the kind that is not supported from the outboard side.  So V-Strom and Buell OEM guards are right out.  But if you take off the guards, we can fit your bike.

No, every weight or throttle lock kit sold on this site has parts enough for the whole installation.

Yes.  Our Throttle Lock is available in Blackout finish.  The powdercoat was carefully masked to keep it out of the workings, which are precision-machined.  The weight side is normal steel, but the Throttle lock side remains Stainless, because any rustproof coating is bound to come off.

Yes.  It is always possible to overpower the holding force of the throttle lock, to adjust the throttle.

If properly installed, with suitable grips, yes.  But if your grips are not secure on the throttle sleeve, or are made of the wrong stuff (see that FAQ), the throttle will migrate closed, and you will start to notice in seconds to minutes, depending.

It presses inboard along the bar, with spring force, against the outer flange of the grip.  The force is limited to the spring's own strength, so there is no way it will not let you close or open the throttle if you really want to, a safety advantage over the competition.  The other side of the coin is that to generate secure holding force, the right kind of grip material is necessary, and the grip must be secure enough on the throttle sleeve so it doesn't get pushed in by the spring force, which would cancel some of the force and allow slippage.

Move your hand to the outside, so your pinky is around the locking collar, which is on the inboard side.  Then rock your hand counterclockwise, pressing down on the grip with the knuckle of your index finger to hold the throttle still.  Then hold the collar between pinky and thumb, and flick it into the engaged position by rotating it in the throttle-on direction. The collar will spring into the grip when it is rotated far enough.

Pull your right hand off the grip entirely, and hold the collar, rotating it in the throttle-off direction as you pull outboard.  The grip will rotate closed.  If you do not want to slow down, you need to learn to pull in the clutch just after you have disengaged the lock. Once the lock is disengaged and your hand is back on the grip, spin the motor up again and let the clutch out.

Yes, even better!  Just make sure that there is a handlebar inside the throttle sleeve.  If there is not, the throttle lock cannot work on that bike.

Yes.  It can trip if your glove or palm rubs against the collar as you operate the bike.  If this happens to you, you can rotate the collar about 1/4 turn in the throttle-off direction, and tighten it in the unlocked position.  It is less convenient to engage from there, but it will stay put.  To prevent this situation it helps to have longer grips and throttle sleeves, so your hands have room to work without touching the collar.

It is at installation, with internal shims, supplied with the kit.  They change the spacing between the throttle lock and the grip.  Once installed, it is not necessary to adjust it.  It is either on or off.  But you could adjust it if you got it wrong the first time.

I will first point out that most of these factors can be corrected, with enough effort.  KuryAkyn or any other plastic or metallic grip will not work.  Grips with no flange at the outboard side may slip more than you like, but usually work fine. The collar must engage soft, grippy rubber.  Handguards that attach between the weight and the grip are right out. Some old Piaggio scooters, which have no handlebar inside their throttle sleeves, cannot be fit with our throttle locks.

Throttlemeister pluses:

Can lock the throttle so it really can't be moved.

Minuses:

Can lock the throttle so it really can't be moved.

User needs to choose holding tension with every use.

Is difficult to set up with a usable tension range which includes both no tension and enough tension.

Mechanism has 24 parts, 19 of which are moving parts!

Mechanism is internally lubricated and sealed with rubber, which deteriortes over time and eventually leaks.

!!!MANIC Salamander pluses:

Cannot prevent you from closing the throttle, unless you installed it so tight you can't even start out.

Set and forget, on or off, no fiddling with tension on the road.

Mechanism has four parts, two of which are moving parts.  Simple as a rock, yet easier to use!

Designed to run dry- no lubrication to attract dirt, no seals to leak.

Minuses:

Imperfect setups will have the grip migrating slowly closed.

The feel of the mechanism is not as smooth as Throttlemeister.

Vista Cruise pluses:

easy, easy engagement and disengagement.

Inexpensive.

Minuses:

All but the nicest ones (which are not that inexpensive) are floppy, chintzy and unreliable, and look like cheap plastic (which they are!)

Even the nicest ones have a busy, jerry-rigged look.

!!!MANIC Salamander pluses:

Soooo pretty! Almost invisible, they look like bar ends.

Very reliable once you set them up.

Minuses:

Cost almost as much as Throttlemeister.  Almost.

A bit less convenient to use than a flip-lever unit.

You can cut a hole in the ends of Hot Grips^TM grip heaters no problem.  Just don't cut off the end.  Generally, any heated grip with an inboard power feed (that doesn't feed out the end of the handlebar) is fine with our products.

Hot Grips^TM have been available for several years with open ends, and those are ideal for our products.