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Hollow-Tube Kit
Questions:
I just got a Hollow-Tube kit from you and it seems reallyloose. Did you send me the wrong thing?
Maybe, but probably not. To check, the expansion nut for
7/8" steel bars is 5/8" at the widest point, the one for 1" steel
bars is 3/4". All Hollow-Tube fitments seem impossibly loose
before tightening. It is just an indirect result of our
efforts to make a solid metal-on-metal connection that still fits
as many bars as possible. The design of our hollow-tube fitments
depends on two points of contact: The expansion nut, which
must be tightened and deformed forcefully against the inside of the
bar, and the conical hilt of the nose, which is pulled against the
inside lip of the handlebar in the last moments of tightening. It
adds up to tightening it two times; once to deform the nut, then
loosen a turn and press the assembly into the bars and wiggle it to
make sure the hilt of the nose is seated, then tighten again.
At that point, there should be no play at all, in any direction,
and it should stay put till you loosen it.
My Hollow-Tube nose does not go all the way into the bar. What is wrong?
As long as the narrow part penetrates the bar, all's well.
The conical hilt of the nose will meet the inner lip of the bar at
different depths depending on the inside diameter of the particular
bar. In the new Smooth City tm weight series, you can make up
the difference with the internal shims supplied with the kit.
On the other hand, 2 1/2" of depth is required inside the bar to
seat the assembly properly. If there is something in there
that is shallower than that, and it does not have screw threads, my
stuff won't fit. If it has screw threads 8mm or narrower, you
are looking at the wrong weight now. Call us 763-234-7242,
and we'll get it sorted out.
The mounting stuff spins when I try to tighten the screw. What do I do?
You press the weight toward the ground in a bending motion, to
jam the shims and nose up, till the nut gets tight enough to hold
it all together. Once you have tightened the nut up fully,
and permanently deformed it against the inside of the bar,
loosening it and pushing it in all the way and retightening it will
be a breeze. The trouble is all in the initial deformation of
the nut. If this doesn't work, check the threads of the nut
for some kind of burr that impedes the screw, and remove the
obstruction. You might need to regrease the screw.
How will the expansion nut hold the weight in securely?
When you tighten it the first time, it expands. A
lot. It doesn't spring back any more than is necessary to
remove the weight. It permanently deforms and molds itself to
the inside of the bar. I meant it to be this way. Trust
me.
I can't hold the weight still as I tighten it down. Whatshould I do?
You do things to increase your hand's traction on the
weight. Just make sure the thing you use doesn't have any
dirt embedded in it, especially for Black and Chrome things.
Dish gloves, latex gloves, leather gloves, rubber bands, jar
opening pads, etc. are good bets. Also remember that on the
initial tightening, you don't have to be fussy about where the
weight is, as long as the nut is in the bar. That way you can
concentrate on holding the weight. It is much easier on the
final tightening, and you can then concentrate on seating it
right.
Do I use Loctite on it?
You can't. The threads are greased to ease installation,
and using loctite instead would make it very difficult to remove
this product. It stays put, though, if you tighten it
enough.
Will these weights protect any part of my bike in a crash?
They may help, to varying degrees, depending on the
application. If this product hits the ground with the weight
of the bike behind it, the screw will bend, and may break,
compromising its protective value. It may need spare parts
after a tipover. But what it protects depends on what hits the
ground before the handlebars, and whether the bars bend or not on
impact.
Are any modifications to my bike necessary in order to installthis product?
Yes, usually. Typically, the handgrip needs a hole cut in
it. It may need the whole end cut off. This can
typically be accomplished with a sharp pocketknife, and detailed
instructions and photos are in the manual.